I’ve been making swords for 10 years, and the claymore is one of the most common questions I get. People see these big two-handed blades in movies or games, and they want to know what makes a real one different from the cheap imports you see online. This post is everything I tell people when they ask me about claymores.
I’m not going to fill this with a bunch of historical fluff you don’t need. I’ll just cover the stuff that matters if you’re looking to buy one, or just curious about how they work.
first off: what even is a claymore?
It’s just a Scottish great sword. The name comes from Gaelic — “claidheamh mòr” translates to “great sword.” That’s it. No fancy secrets, it’s just what the Scots called their big two-handed swords starting in the 1400s.
What sets it apart from other big European swords? The crossguard. Traditional claymores have those distinct angled ends that curve forward toward the tip. That’s the first thing I look for when I see a reproduction. If it doesn’t have that quillon shape, it’s not a real claymore — it’s just a big generic sword.
Size-wise, most old claymores were between 130 and 180 cm overall (50 to 70 in). Blades were 100 to 140 cm (39 to 55 in). That’s big, but it’s not the 6-foot monster you see in fantasy movies. The real ones were manageable for a guy of average size to fight with.
what were they actually used for back in the day?
Claymores were battlefield weapons. Scottish clans fought a lot of battles between themselves and with the English back in the 15th to 17th centuries. The two-handed grip let you put a lot of weight into a swing, which could cut through shields and break chainmail.
Even after guns showed up, claymores stuck around. Back then, you’d fire one musket shot, and then it was close-quarters fighting before you could reload. The claymore was perfect for that gap. They were still being used in the Jacobite rising in 1745, which is way later than people think.
These days, they’re not used on battlefields obviously. But people still want them for three main things: collecting, HEMA (historical martial arts), and cosplay/display. I’ll cover all three cases later.
the key bits that make a good claymore
If you’re buying one, you need to check these things. I’ve seen so many cheap claymores that get the design wrong, and they’re a pain to deal with.
- full tang construction — This is non-negotiable if you ever plan to swing it. The steel needs to run all the way through the handle. Cheap display swords have partial tangs where the blade stops halfway through the handle. Swing it a couple times, and the handle will fly off. Don’t risk it. Even if it’s just for display, I still recommend full tang — it just feels more solid.
- that crossguard shape — I mentioned this earlier. The ends of the crossguard need to angle forward. The original design did this for a reason: it traps your opponent’s blade if they slide it down yours. That gives you a chance to yank their weapon out of their hands. It’s not just for looks.
- proper handle length — You need 30 to 40 cm (12 to 16 in) of handle to fit both hands. Any shorter and you can’t get a good grip. I make mine 35 cm (14 in) for most people, which fits just about anyone’s two hands.
- good weight balance — A lot of people think claymores are super heavy. They’re not. Most originals were between 2.2 and 3.2 kg (4.8 to 7.0 lb). That’s about the same as a big bag of groceries. The trick is where the weight sits. A good claymore should balance about 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) from the crossguard. If the balance is too far out toward the tip, it’ll feel heavy and clumsy when you swing it. If it’s too close to the handle, it feels dead.
- secure pommel — The end of the tang should be peened over the pommel. That means you hammer the end of the steel out so it can’t come loose. A lot of cheaper swords just screw the pommel on, and it works loose after a few dozen swings. Peening takes more work, but it’s the only way to make sure it stays tight.
The myth I hear all the time: “you need to be 6’5″ to lift a claymore.” Nope. I’m 5’10”, and I can swing a 3 kg (6.6 lb) claymore around just fine. It’s all about the balance, not the total weight.
how is a claymore different from other big swords?
People mix these up all the time, so let me clear it up:
claymore vs zweihander
Zweihanders are the German version of the great sword. They’re bigger, usually over 200 cm (78 in) overall, and they have a much longer unsharpened section (called a ricasso) near the crossguard so you can choke up on the blade. Claymores are shorter, and they don’t have that long ricasso. The crossguard shape is totally different too.
claymore vs katana
Both are two-handed, but that’s where the similarities end. Katanas are curved, single-edged, and lighter. They’re made for a different kind of cutting motion. Claymores are straight(ish), double-edged, and rely on raw power. Both work great for what they were designed for — they just do different things.
claymore vs longsword
Longswords are smaller. Most are under 150 cm (59 in) overall, and they’re designed for both cutting and thrusting. Claymores are bigger and built mostly for cutting. If you’re just getting into two-handed swords, a longsword is easier to start with, but that doesn’t mean a claymore can’t be a first sword if that’s what you want.
what kind of steel do you need for your claymore?
It depends on what you’re going to do with it. I tell people this every time: don’t overspend on steel if it’s just going on your wall. And don’t cheap out on steel if you’re going to swing it and cut things. Here’s the breakdown:
- 1045 carbon steel: This is fine for display only. It’s cheap, it takes a polish okay, and it looks good on the wall. Don’t try to cut anything with it. It’s too soft, and the edge will bend or roll over after a couple cuts.
- 1060 carbon steel: This is my go-to for most people. It’s hard enough to hold an edge for regular cutting, but it’s still tough enough to take impact without chipping. It’s not as high maintenance as 1095, and it’s cheaper too. 90% of the battle-ready claymores I make use 1060.
- 1095 carbon steel: This is for people who cut stuff every week. It holds an edge way longer than 1060, but it’s a little more brittle, and you have to keep it oiled or it will rust. If you’re serious about test cutting, this is what you want. If you’re just starting out, 1060 is plenty.
- spring steel: If you’re doing HEMA sparring, get spring steel. It flexes when it hits something, so it doesn’t hurt as bad and it won’t break. It’s not good for cutting, but it’s perfect for sparring.
All the steels I just mentioned will rust if you don’t take care of them. That’s just carbon steel. If you want zero maintenance, you’d have to go with stainless, but stainless is too soft for cutting anyway. So just plan to oil your blade once every few months, and you’ll be fine.
the mistakes I see people make when buying their first claymore
I’ve sold hundreds of claymores now, and I see the same mistakes every time. Save yourself some headache and avoid these:
buying one that’s too big
Everyone wants the biggest one in the shop. I get it — bigger looks more impressive. But if you’re 5’8″, a 180 cm (70 in) claymore is going to be awkward as hell to swing. You can’t maneuver it, and you’ll get tired after two minutes. Go with a blade that’s proportional to your height. If you’re under 5’10”, get a blade under 120 cm (47 in). It’s still big enough to look cool, and you can actually use it.
buying the cheapest one you can find
I see these $100 claymores on the big marketplace sites all the time. They look like a steal, right? But what you’re getting is a mass-produced blade with bad heat treatment, a loose pommel, and a tang that stops halfway through the handle. It’ll look good on the shelf for a while, but the first time you swing it hard, something will break. And then you’re out $100 and you still don’t have a working sword. You’re better off saving up an extra $100 or $200 and getting something that’s actually built right.
forgetting it needs maintenance
People buy a nice carbon steel claymore, hang it on the wall above their fireplace (which is already a bad idea because of humidity), and then wonder why it’s covered in rust two years later. Carbon steel needs a thin coat of oil every 3-6 months, depending on how humid your climate is. If you live somewhere that gets rainy and hot, check it every couple months. It takes five minutes. Just wipe the old oil off with a rag and put a new thin coat on. That’s all it takes to keep it from rusting.
getting unsharpened when you want to cut
Most display claymores come with an unsharpened blade for safety. That’s fine if it’s just for cosplay or your wall. But if you want to do test cutting, make sure you order one that’s sharpened right from the shop. I sharpen all our battle-ready models before they go out, but not everyone does. Double-check before you click buy.
how I take care of my own claymore
I keep a 1060 claymore at the shop that I use for demonstrating cuts. Here’s exactly what I do to keep it in good shape:
- After every time I use it, I wipe the entire blade down with a dry rag. This gets rid of sweat from my hands, which causes rust.
- Once it’s dry, I put on a very thin coat of mineral oil. I know people who use gun oil, and that works too. Don’t use olive oil or any other cooking oil — it gets sticky and goes rancid after a while.
- When I put it back in the scabbard, I make sure it’s completely dry. I don’t store it in the scabbard long-term anyway — I keep mine on a rack at the shop so air can get to it.
- Every six months or so, I check the pommel to make sure it’s still tight. I haven’t had it come loose yet, because I peened it when I built it, but it doesn’t hurt to check.
- When the edge gets dull, I sharpen it on a stone. How often this happens depends on how much you use it. I cut things once a week at the shop, so I sharpen it about every two months. If it’s just sitting on your wall, you’ll never need to sharpen it.
It’s really not that much work. People act like caring for a carbon steel sword is this huge chore, but it’s not. Five minutes every few months is all it takes.
why I make my claymores by hand
We’re a small shop, so we don’t crank out hundreds of swords a month. Each claymore is forged one at a time by me or one of the other smiths here. That means we can check every step of the process.
When you buy a handmade claymore from us, you don’t have to worry about whether the tang is full, or if the pommel is loose, or if the heat treatment was done right. We do that right the first time. You can pick your blade length, your steel, your handle wrap — whatever you need. If you have questions while you’re deciding, just pick up the email or give us a call, and I’ll answer you personally. I don’t outsource customer service to some call center.
We’ve been doing this for 10 years now, and we’ve got claymores out there that are still going strong after a decade of regular cutting. That’s what you get when you build something by hand the right way.
the questions people ask me most
I get the same questions over and over, so I’ll just answer them here:
can a claymore really cut through armor?
It can cut through chainmail and leather, sure. But it can’t cut through plate armor. Nothing can. That’s not what it was for. Against plate, you’d hit people with the pommel or the flat of the blade to knock them over or stun them, then stab them through the gaps. So don’t believe the marketing that says it’ll cut through solid steel. It won’t.
is a claymore a good first sword?
If you just want it for display, sure. It’s no different from any other sword. If you want it for HEMA or cutting, I usually tell beginners to start with something smaller, just to get used to handling a two-handed sword. But if you really want a claymore as your first sword, go for it. Just don’t get one that’s too big for you.
how long does it take to get one after I order?
Because we make everything by hand, it’s usually 4-6 weeks from order to shipping. Sometimes it’s a little faster if we have one in stock that matches what you want. Sometimes it’s a little slower if we’re backed up. I’d rather take the time to build it right than rush it and send you something that’s not done correctly.
do you ship to my country?
We ship to most places around the world. But you need to check your local laws before you order. Some countries have restrictions on how long a blade can be, or what kind of weapons you can import. It’s your responsibility to know that before you order. If your country stops it at customs, we can’t issue a refund because it’s not our fault.
what comes with the claymore?
Every claymore we sell comes with a wood core scabbard wrapped in leather, just like the original ones. If you want a wall mount to hang it up, I sell those separately too.
closing thoughts
A good claymore is one of those pieces that just feels right when you pick it up. It’s got history, it’s got presence, and if you build it right, it’s still usable today. Whether you want it for your wall, for your HEMA practice, or for cutting targets on the weekend, you just need to get one that’s built properly for what you want to do with it.
Don’t fall for the cheap mass-produced stuff. Save up a little extra, get something that’s built with a full tang, proper heat treatment, and that correct crossguard shape. If you take care of it, it’ll last you longer than you will. You can pass it down to your kids, and they’ll still be able to swing it 50 years from now.
If you’ve got questions that I didn’t answer here, just shoot me an email through the site. I answer every email myself, and I’m happy to help you figure out what size and steel you need.